Archive for September 28, 2008

Chicken on Sunday = Chicken Tomatillo Soup on Day 2

I love visiting other people’s gardens and tasting food they cook from their garden. So when I went to visit Pat D.’s garden in Castleton, VA, I was in for a treat. She asked me to stay for lunch, and served a most intriguing Tomatillo Chicken soup: pale green, slightly sour with a hint of heat, it was very pleasant. I, of course, requested the recipe since tomatillos are now behaving almost like a weed in my garden – albeit a welcomed one – as they pop everywhere. Pat said she got the recipe from the internet years ago when she was trying to figure what to do with all those tomatillos. Her husband Ed has been making the soup ever since and they both love it. The original recipe called for 2 chicken breasts that one has to pound and then sautéed. I thought left over from a roast chicken – especially dark meat – would work even better. And it did. Pat’s recipe did not called for any spice, I added some coriander seeds. My recipe has less meat than hers (feel free to add more to your taste) and is also thicker. Remember, we are using meat from the chicken roasted on Sunday.

A bowl of Tomatillo Chicken Soup

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Roast Chicken for Sunday; Tasty Dinners for the Whole Week!

When I am really busy, I don’t always have the time to cook from scratch everyday (and frankly, sometimes I don’t have the energy!). Yet, we eat well. One of my strategies is to cook something purposefully large on the week-end, and reuse it during the week, but in such a manner that the weekly meals do not feel like “leftovers”. I don’t think there is anything wrong with leftovers, but apparently, for many people, it a bad word. Chicken is the ideal meat for that – being so versatile. As an aside, this strategy also saves money: it’s cheaper to buy a whole chicken and cut-it up; you’ll eat less meat and more vegetables; you won’t give-in in buying take-out (or going out) out since you’ll have meals planned for the whole week!

In late summer, early fall, I want to take advantage of tomatoes, peppers, beans, tomatillos and other seasonal veggies. So a week of dinner menus based on that one chicken might look like this:

Roast chicken

How does it work? Read more

Early Fall Tomato Soup

The season is changing: I can taste it in the air. The nights are getting cool yet the days are still warm. The daylight hours are shortening; the light is mellowing; the air is crisper. The leaves on the trees are subtly goldening – soon to burnish or russet. The dew sparkles again in the early morning grass; soon there will be mist in the morning. Soon the geese will honk overhead, soon birds will gather to go south.

The colchicums raise up their rosy goblets to the sky; the cyclamens nod gently. The bees are buzzing in the goldenrods and the asters – their last chance to gather nectar and pollen in quantity before frost does away with the flowers.

Golden-fingered Autumn is here.

Lots to do in the garden, from transplanting the lettuces and the kales, to bundling the cardoons for blanching, from sowing the rocket-salad to digging the potatoes. And…weeding – always – and picking, picking, picking: peppers, okras, tomatoes, tomatillos, carrots, beets, the late corn and the last of the green beans. Tomato fatigue has settled. But with cool nights, it’s time again for warm soups! It’s time to reawaken those taste buds to the goodness of tomatoes with a mellow Early Fall Tomato Soup that’s perfect for a light dinner on a cool night, maybe with toasted bread and blue cheese, followed by poached pears or an upside-down apple cake. Or for lunch with a grilled cheese sandwich.

A Bowl of Tomato Soup Read more

Pig Roast – Part 3 “Day of the Roast”

(This the THIRD bonus post from Keith, the last one in the series about spit-roasting a whole pig. Read Part One here, Part Two here and see a couple of additional photos here)

Wake Up

Using backward planning, I rolled out of bed at 4:15 a.m. Sunday morning. Chief Ann wanted the pig ready to eat at 4 pm. The pig weighed 90 lbs, and the rule of thumb for cooking is 1 hour cooking for every 10 pounds of carcass. Given 9 hours to cook, I needed it on the spit at 7 a.m. I figured it would take 2 hours to dress the pig onto the spit, so I needed to start work at 5 a.m. (I’ll talk about starting the charcoal later.) I gave myself a half hour margin (cocky!) and arrived at 4:30 a.m.

Around 2 a.m. there was a call for mutual assistance from another county – they wanted our company to have a fire truck on stand-by. Read more

Pig Roast – Part 2 “The Delivery”

(This the SECOND bonus post from Keith – me thinks he is having some fun with this. Read Part 1 “The Pig” as well as my own post for our Busy Weekend . Sylvie)

I wasn’t going to talk about the delivery of the pig, but I must. Let me begin by repeating that Belle Meade provided a wonderful pig, and stating that I understand how the following comedy occurred.

My biggest concern for the weekend was where to store the pig between its delivery and cooking. There are few worse sins than ruining food through incompetence, and while I could visualize the prep and cooking, I could not wrap my mind around what happens between delivery and preparation. (Have you ever had to worry about where you’d stash an inconvenient carcass?)

While our fire company kitchen has 2 standard refrigerators, it was no sure thing the pig would fit without damaging something. I decided that if the refrigerators wouldn’t serve, I’d arrange folding chairs in our shower and pack the pig with ice. (This would not make me popular with any member who wanted to actually take a shower, but sacrifices must be made.) Compounding my stress was that the fire hall was rented for Saturday night while deliver was set for 6 p.m. on Saturday.

The good news is that the pig fit in the refrigerator. The bad news Read more

Pig Roast – Part One “The Pig”

(Bonus post from Keith, also read Sylvie’s post for our Busy Weekend)

So far as manly man food goes, a pig roast has to be close to the top. To round out the event, let’s make it a pig roast for a volunteer fire company in rural Virginia. Yeah.

It had been years since anyone could recall a pig roast for the company; Robbie – a sheriff’s deputy and volunteer – and I were talking about the lamb roast Sylvie and I did in July when we made the decision. Chief Ann gave the go ahead and the prep work began.

Getting a good pig was a challenge. Changes in the population (fewer traditional farmers), grain prices this year, and demand in the cities for locally raised meat have made getting ‘quality’ pigs harder. Lots of the volunteers remembered things from their youth – either raising pigs or having relatives who did. Some talked of doing it again, but their long commutes to ‘real jobs’ and sky high grain prices may have made this self sufficient source of meat a thing of the past.

I met a pig farmer from one county over who embraced the USDA’s ‘get big or get out’ policies. They are doing a good business working between the ‘old ways’ and factory farming supplying hole pigs to pitmasters through the mid-Atlantic. I think their operation is a big improvement over the monstrosities out there, but I don’t know that their pigs ever see the sunshine.

Our go-to supplier was Belle Meade who supplied a beautiful pig at a generous price. I don’t know if Belle Meade’s model can feed the world, but I do think it can make the world a better place. Buying from someone like Belle Meade is, unfortunately, a luxury for most people, but I like to put my money where my mouth is.

We’re already planning for next year. If all goes as I hope, the company will be eating our own pig, raised by one of our numbers and financed by the rest.

Note from Sylvie: the pig must be scalded. The fatty skin will keep the meet moist and tender while roasting. It is discarded after cooking – unless you want to break it in pieces to flavor beans – or you want to spoil your dog.

Continuing: Pig Roast – Part Two “The Delivery”

A Busy Week-End

First it was dinner for 29 on Friday for a troupe of 16 student actors from Cambridge, England, and the families who were hosting them for the two nights they were in Washington, VA. On their annual touring of the US East Coast, CAST stopped at The Theater in Washington, VA, for two enjoyable lively and modern performances of Henry V. On the dinner menu: blue corn chips and homemade salsa verde, garden heirloom tomatoes & red onion salad, pesto and Italian pepper pasta salad, lamb kebab with mint-cilantro sauce, rosemary lemon chicken, butternut & buttercup gratin, Rusty’s Italian plum cake, maple vanilla bean baked custard, & garden watermelon.

Tasting the pig

Then on Sunday, in a 95+ degree weather (95 F or 35 C), there was a pig roast for the Washington Volunteer Fire & Rescue Company, members, family and guests. While I did not get up at 4:00 AM to prepare and roast the pig (that care was left to the resident pit master), I was sure to be there two hours before the scheduled “done” time to offer various critiques and ensure that the pig was properly roasted by taking samples. Oh yeah, and to make 1 gallon of Vanilla Bean Philadelphia Ice Cream.

We got the pig from Belle Meade on F.T. Valley Road in Sperryville – where animals are pastured on good Rappahannock County grass. We use only cow-boy charcoal to slow roast the animal with our motorized spit over an outdoor fire. As we were told by several guests, each with a wondrous voice: “It tastes like pig!”.

It does.

When done, all that’s needed is a little salt.

Pig on the Spit

My favorite morsel? The cheeks.

Then all the meat that I patiently picked off the ribs – which, with some finger-licking-good sauce, will make some nice pulled pork BBQ sandwich.

I think I need to eat lots of fruit and vegetables this week.

Note: read more about Roasting the Pig, in Keith’s three entries:

Homemade Mozzarella

Attempt number 1.

Not bad… actually, taste is great, but I need to steep the cheese longer next time (more than 10 minutes!) so it has a better rounder shape.

Homemade Mozzarella

Goes heavenly for with all those late summer tomatoes, a little fried garlic and some fruity olive oil.

Rusty’s Italian Plum Cake

A slice of Rusty\'s Italian Plum Cake

Vanille teased me for being in an “upside-down” baking mood (and she should know – being “down under” in New Zealand) because I blogged back-to-back about Tomato Tatin and then about Upside Down Plum Spiced Cake. I felt like I had to make a post that was not upside down. Well, not really… but I am still working through my 4 gallons of Italian plums, and nobody ever – ever – complains in the house when I make dessert. So, here! ANOTHER Italian Plum Cake.

The recipe comes through courtesy of my mother-in-law. She wrote that it’s from a newspaper clipping dated 9/13/89 that’s in her recipe box. Although the clipped recipe calls for plums, Rusty informed me that she never made it with plums, but has tried it with other fruit – mainly apples (in which case she adds nutmeg because she likes nutmeg) and pears. She says it’s good even cold, great for a snack or for breakfast (her son agrees). I added a little liqueur to the cake, changed the spices used, increased the amount of fruit, and – since I don’t think it’s a torte (which it what the clipping called it), I am renaming it: Rusty’s Italian Plum Cake. I also use white whole wheat flour, which works perfectly fine with this rather rustic (but delicious) dessert. Read more

Pawpaws Are Our Bananas

Pawpaws

Should you go walking along a bottomland stream in Rappahannock County, you are likely to encounter pawpaws (or paw-paws or paw paws). You may not notice them though – unless you paid attention – because they are small under story trees that grow in clumps. Nothing majestic about a pawpaw tree! Blooming in April or early May, the pawpaw hangs its maroon bell-shaped flowers on bare branches. Its fairly large drooping leaves are vaguely tropical looking. Its fruit is decidedly exotic looking – a reminder that the pawpaws’ cousins are tropical denizens (think Custard Apples or Cherimoya). However, the plant (Asimina triloba) is firmly native to our area, the Northern Piedmont and, more broadly to eastern North America; it is the only larval host of the Zebra Swallowtail Butterfly – another sign, if you see lots of Zebra swallowtails in summer , to look for trees in the vicinity. The fruit ripen in September – and you do have to look for them! The wild trees are typically shy fruiters (its flowers fertilized by carrion flies). The fruit hang down toward the branch tips, singly or in small clusters, looking like small, vaguely kidney-shape, mangoes – somewhat difficult to spot.

Asimina triloba or pawpaw flower

We just went checking on the ones I had noticed earlier in the summer. Still there – for now. I picked a few that seemed softer than most, but after tasting one, I’ll wait to pick more. The flesh is creamy, and when ripe, reminiscent of bananas, mangoes, guava – or cherimoya. No surprise that some of its common names are Hoosier banana, prairie banana, Kentucky bananas, Ozark banana etc. I’ll wait until there is more black showing and the fruit is softer before picking more (if raccoons or other creatures don’t beat me to it): just like real banana, I like my Hoosier banana ripe! The ones I picked will continue to ripen inside – again just like bananas.

How do you eat them? With a spoon…