Archive for Fruit recipe

On Blackberries (and Creme de Blackberry recipe)

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Before I planted blackberries in the garden, I used to go forage for them. They grow all over the place, tenaciously clinging to their chosen spot and taking over the neighborhood: the clump expands rapidly and any cane that touches the ground roots to produce yet another plant. They are ferocious too with long hard and sharp thorns that will draw blood as you gingerly try to pluck a berry. It takes quite a while to pick a gallon of wild blackberries

But not the plants I have: they are thornless with large and flavorful berries. Labels have -  of course -  been lost, but at least one of them (based on its behavior) is “Triple Crown”, the other might be “Apache” and “Navaho”.  They are beautiful in bloom and mesmerizing in fruit. Last winter, I did not prune them. I mean, I meant to prune them, but it never happened. And that Triple Crown took full advantage of it,  pushing itself over the timid raspberries, flinging its 10-ft long canes in the asparagus bed, and blocking all the paths around it. On the bright side, it’s producing lots of berries. Which for now need to be picked every other days, but soon, it’ll be every day.

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Harvest every other days … and it’s only the beginning of the season.

And so I have to do something with them. Here are some ideas:

- the fastest: eat them. But there is only so many you can eat, right?

- so, next, the easiest: dump them in freezer bags and freeze. If you have room, that’s perfect. You can worry about them later, let’s say in January when there is no local fresh fruit to get excited about.

- Any cobbler recipe works for blackberries. Until recently, based on an unfortunate past experience, I was convinced that blackberries yielded seedy little blobs when baked and therefore would not made good cobblers. What was I thinking? Blackberries are delicious cooked! Cobbler is one of the easiest baking you can do: 10 minutes to assemble, 20-30 minutes in the oven, and the most enticing aroma of cooking blackberries fills the kitchen. I just did not realize that blackberries would taste so much better after they were cooked! I see a lot more baking using blackberries in the future

- Frozen desserts: while  ice-cream and sorbet require some time to make (but not a whole lot of it), a mix of fresh & cooked blackberries in cooked and lightly sweetened blackberry puree  really liven up apple sauce, yogurt – or if you want some luxury – barely whipped cream. Add some toasted oats, drizzle some real honey and you aren’t far from that classic Scot dessert, the cranacan (don’t forget a shot of bourbon).

- canning: because I have limited freezer space, and encourage by the blackberry cobbler, I am canning blackberries this year, with a tiny bit of sugar and using the low pasteurization method, i.e. a longer water-bath at 185-190 ° F, instead of a shorter boiling one. The berries keep their shape and color much better that way!

- jamming – I am making both jams (weight sugar is 80% of the weight of berries) & spreads & sauces  (weight of sugar varies between 10 and 30% of the weight of berries)

- liquoring. I have a weakness for steeping fruit & botanicals  in alcohol, but I wanted more than just blackberry liquor, where the fruit is steeped is strong alcohol. I adore creme de cassis, and wanted to see if you could make a creme de mures, with a similar unctuous quality. Yes, I can, and so I share what I did with you.

Creme de Blackberry

Ready to sip. It is voluptuous.

Ready to sip. It is voluptuous.

A sumptuous very sweet drink. Sip lightly.

While some of the alcohol evaporates, there is residual alcohol in the beverage, so serve it accordingly.  Adding brandy further fortifies the drink and makes it less sweet. Use wisely.

Choose a pleasant drinking wine. Nothing fancy is required. In fact, I have been known to use left over wine from a party. A local red would be perfect, wouldn’t it?

  • 2 quart perfectly ripe recently picked blackberries
  • 1 bottle (750 m) red table wine
  • sugar
  • brandy or rum (optional)

Pick through the berries. Wash gently if necessary. Put them in a 1/2 gallon glass jar, crushing them as you go. Then add the wine. It should totally cover the berries. if it does not, crush some more. Cover the jar with a clean towel.

Let rest a room temperature for 2 days. Pass the whole thing through the food mill, set up at the smallest-size mesh.

Measure the juice and pour in a non-reactive thick-bottomed pan. For every quart, add 3 slightly heaping cups of sugar (i.e for every liter, add 625 g of sugar). Gently bring to a low boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Simmer (on bare simmer) for 5 minutes. Do not overcook, as you want a syrup, not a jelly!

Remove from heat and funnel into hot sterilized heat-proof bottles. Cap; let cool and refrigerate. Alternatively, for long term storage, funnel into warm heat-proof bottles, seal and process in a hot-water bath at 180-185 F (82-85 C) for 30 minutes – not hotter as you only want to pasteurize the creme, but not set the pectin in the fruit.  Believe me: jelly in a bottle is no fun!

Canned & ready for the pantry!

Pasteurized & ready for the pantry!


Foraging for Wild Summer Berries (and Shrub recipe)

Wineberries and a few wild blackberries

Wineberries – and a few wild blackberries

Who hasn’t plucked and munched on a handful of wild blackberries or huckleberries while hiking? Didn’t it feel like a tiny treasure hunt, the taste of wild berries sharper, more intense than their tamed counterparts?

Sure, foraging for berries takes time, but you didn’t lift a finger, did not drop a single bead of sweat  to propagate, nurture, plant, weed, fertilize nor water the little suckers! You only have to show up and pick.  Even with decent foraging skills,  a couple of hours of picking yields a harvest that may look slim.  After all, I can pick 5 times faster from tidy rows of ‘Apaho’, ‘Triple Crown’ or ‘Navajo’ – three widely planted thornless cultivars – than from a fiercely tangled thorny thicket of wild blackberries. (yes, I have measured!)… but of course the tidy rows have to be maintained, pruned, trellised, weeded, mowed…

Besides, there is nothing like picking wild berries on a warm scented summer morning: the sweetly clean fragrance of pink bouncing-bet, the sharp minty smell of trampled horsemint, the aroma of over ripe berries, the muskiness of rotting vegetation, the heady pervasive scent of flowering basswood humming with bees… it’s… wild! And some berries simply are not cultivated. So if you want them, you get to pick.

Most common berries fruiting in June or July for us include:
Mulberries, beloved of birds and small children, are small fast-growing trees. While the fruit of the native red mulberry (Morus rubra) are excellent, red mulberries has hybridized with white mulberry (Morus alba) an invasive species from Southeast Asia introduced several hundred years ago as a source of food for the silk worm in an attempt to establish a silk industry. Some of the white or hybrid mulberry fruit are insipid: taste first.

Black raspberries, also called blackcaps, are much smaller and sweeter than blackberries. Their fruit is hollow (a sign of a raspberry) and their thorns gentle. It’s a timid plant in the wild, that has a tough time competing with wineberry and blackberry brambles.

Wineberries (Rubus phoenicolasius) are a species of raspberries native to Northern China, Japan and Korea and naturalized in moist areas at the edge of woods, along streams, dicthes and old stone walls – plentiful along semi-shady country roads. The immature berry is enclosed in a hairy calyx that opens up once the fruit ripens. They are slightly tart and not as deeply perfumed as raspberries, but they hold on the vine extremely well, and don’t spoil as fast. You can start picking when they first turn vermilion red until they are very dark red.  This year was a particularly good year for them, I have been able to pick several gallons, which I canned or froze. They also started to ripen later than in the last few years, and in late July, here in Rappahannock County, they are are still some out at higher altitudes.

Blackberries (various Rubus species) showy blossoms are conspicuously beautiful in May – an easy way to note them and return for harvest later. They produce fruit of various sweetness and are renowned for vicious thorns that can tear a shirt or rip the back of a hand in the blink of an eye. They are the latest of the berries mentioned here, and overlap with the wineberries.

Wild blueberries are said to be all around the Shenandoah National Park, but I have never gone to pick them there.

Berry-picking equipment is minimal: a basket hanging from the belt or the neck to free both hands for picking; sturdy boots, long pants and long sleeves against poison ivy,  thorns and biting insects; a walking stick or hook to pull in or away a particularly thorny branch is nicely helpful

Don’t pile too many berries in your basket least the bottom layer be crushed. In hot weather they can spoil in a few hours – especially when wet or smashed. So, eat, cook or freeze those soft berries fast. At this time of the year, I always have in the car a low card box and a stack of pint-size berry baskets… because you never know when opportunity arise. I am an inveterate berry pickers, and I met lots of opportunities head-on this year!

Just like their garden siblings, wild berries can be used raw or cooked (strain out the numerous seeds of wild blackberries though); juiced; turned into jam, jelly, syrup; or frozen whole. They are delicious in smoothies, ice-creams or fruit sauces. Freezing is my favorite way to preserve them:  I put whole berries in freezer bags and layer the bags flat in the freezer. Once the berries are frozen hard, the bags can be stacked. I avoid washing the berries before freezing, but if that is really necessary, I let them dry thoroughly first so they don’t clump together.

Jam and fruit spread are also time-honored ways to preserves them. This year, I have been canning them with low-pasteurization water-bath so they retain their color ad shape (which they loose in a rolling-boil water-bath).

They can be pickled (I intend to try some later) as well as turn into any number of beverages: juice, syrup, shrub & wine.

Shrub is particularly fool-proof and I have yet met someone who has not enjoyed a berry shrub.

Berry Shrub
Any berry, wild or of garden-origin-  can be used to make shrub, and you may also use frozen berries. I  I particularly like blackberry shrub and strawberry shrub. Raspberry shrub is exquisite, but I rarely feel I have enough raspberries to spare some for a shrub. Blackberries &  strawberries, we’ve got!

How to use shrub? Stir a spoonful or two of shrub in plain water, ice-tea or hot tea. It’s also perfect for homemade soda (mix with sparkling or seltzer water) or for a wine spritzer (use sparkling wine), I prefer 1 part shrub to 4 or 5 parts sparkling water. Adjust to your taste…. and feel to experiment in cocktail.


1 quart of wild berries (one kind only)
1 cup red wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar (at least 5% acidity)
2 cups water
1 to 1 1/4  cup mild real honey (the kind you get from a small beekeeper so it is minimally processed) or 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cup sugar (to taste)

Bring berries, vinegar & 1 cup water to boil. Simmer 10 minutes until berries are soft. Process through a food-mill to remove seeds. Strain through a fine mesh strainer or let drain through a jelly bag if desired to remove additional pulp.

Heat remaining water with honey (or sugar), stirring until honey (or sugar) dissolves. Brig t o boil. Remove from heat and stir into the still-warm fruit/vinegar mix. For long-term storage can using boiling water bath method or refrigerate for up to 2 months.

A Black Currant Streusel Cake With Black Currant Compote

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So far, it’s been a good year for berries! A cold winter and abundant spring rains have given the plants what they want.  You will not hear me complain about the past winter nor about the rains (yet, at least…)

I am actually harvesting red raspberries… thanks to a bout of happy garden laziness. The raspberry canes that fruited last year should have been cut down at the end of the winter. For a number of reasons – none of them very good – I never cleaned the patch. And what’s the result? Raspberries  in June! Not something to do every year as the patch would rapidly becoming an awful mess, but every  2  years, or every year on half the patch alternating which half is cut in March. Remains to be seen, however, if the fall harvest is as abundant as before. Still raspberries in June is pretty nice.

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I have written before before about my fondness for red currants. I simply adore their brilliant tartness, when mixed with other berries, or by themselves with a light sprinkle of sugar, or in the easiest jelly in the world, one I make every year.

This year, I am also harvesting black currants. When I planted them, I had cassis on my mind, the syrupy dark purple liquor from Burgundy that’s also made in the Ile d’Orlean, in Quebec. I somehow imagines that the berries have the same flavors. Not so. Certainly not raw.

Black currants needs to be cooked for that haunting flavor. Otherwise it’s just another tart berry, and one not particularly remarkable at that. Pleasant but nothing special. Cook it however, and you’ve got something really special. Read more

The Other Quince

Japanese quince flowers are truly enchanting in the spring. But the fruit that ripen in mid-fall sure aren’t pretty: hard to the touch and to the teeth, gnarly, pitted, inhabited often. Raw they are so tart that they’ll make your mouth puckers (if you don’t break a tooth first biting into it)  and your stomach  revolts if you manage to swallow. So why do I want anything to do with them?

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Because, when managed correctly, you’ve got some pretty tasty treats. That’s why!

European quince (of which I have written, here, and here) turn into hauntingly floral soft fruit once cooked, making them great as side dish to rich meat, as sauce, in baked desserts, ice-cream, jam, jelly, booze etc.

Japanese quince are viewed almost purely as ornamental in the Western world and their culinary use is much more limited. (If you are interested, do check out this page on the medicinal properties of Japanese quince). Because of their incredible tartness I have only used them with lots of sugar: jam, jelly, syrups & cordials. Or honey – it’s a wonderful combination.  And their aroma? Think sharp lemon jam with floral undertones and none of the bitterness. As they cook with sugar they turn a perfectly beautiful red hue.

Now isn’t that something you could use? Tart, beautiful color, fragrant? I thought so: don’t let your Japanese quince go to waste!

Granted, it’s some work to get it all done – but think about it: how much time did you spend taking care of the shrub? Zilch would be my bet! So get your knives out and get going.

You can turn the fruit into an exquisite jam (recipe for Japanese Quince Jam below). Or you can cook it and strain it: the resulting juice is absolutely wonderful in jelly (Recipe for Japanese Quince Jelly below), and the remaining purée can be used for jam or rustic fruit paste (less nice than if you also use the juice, but still nice). But here is my triumph – and I came to it accidentally. I had been chopping hot peppers – without gloves – while a pot of jelly was simmering. I used my finger to taste the jelly… and I had this most wonderful spicy hot, sweet and tart taste… the best hot pepper jelly.

Now, I like some hot pepper jellies – the one made by my friend Jennifer, as well as the one made by the Turners through their Virginia Chutney Company. But too often the jelly is over-sweet and too rubbery. It’s because one must use lots of pectin since peppers don’t have any to talk of. One must also use vinegar for acidity – and sometimes sub-par vinegar is used. But here I’ve got this incredibly tart juice that naturally so full of pectin that it jells if you look at it wrong. In fact that when I tried to make a syrup, it jelled solid over night.

Anyway… that’s my triumph: Japanese Quince Hot Pepper Jelly. Try it – you won’t regret it.

japanese Quince Jelly Read more

Blackberries, Sweet & Tart

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Blackberries are producing madly. They have been loving this more temperature summer. Me too! And so they have rewarded us with beaucoup berries since mid-July. For a few weeks in fact they were producing along the Saturn flat peach. ahhh…

flat peach & blackberries Loads just got bagged and tossed in the freezer. Lots got turned into jam, some mixed with blueberries. New to me this year was blackberry gastrique, an awful name if there ever was one: just hearing it makes me want to reach for the bottle of crème de menthe. But it is a homemade competitor to flavored balsamic vinegar — a syrupy blackberry vinegar akin to shrub that I like to drizzle on hard cheese, add to sparkling water, use for vinaigrette, baste ribs or chicken on the grill. I had heard of gastrique before but dismissed it , unjustly based on its name. I came across this video from Sherri Brooks Vinton and realized it was akin to shrub. I made it and I am hooked. I have since made Peach ginger gastrique and there is a tomato one in the works.

And then I have been having fun with sherbet using honey from our hives. This version came by accident: I wanted to make sherbet with buttermilk (something similar to this blueberry sherbet) but there was none in the fridge. There was however sour cream, so that is what I used. Instead of my usual vodka (used to prevent the sherbet from becoming too icy) I splashed in some crème de cassis. Wow! I was really pleased with the depth of flavors and the mouthful – it is, in fact, one of my favorite sherbet. Don’t sweat the proportions too much: let your taste buds guide you. I was reakky measuring when I was making it.

So without more ado, 2 recipes: Blackberry Gastrique and Blackberry Honey Sherbet. Read more

Deviled Eggs


Initially published in the Virginia Wine Gazette On-line…. but deviled eggs are always in season.

Bring out a platter of deviled eggs at a party and they disappear. They are the perfect party food: you can make them ahead and in quantity, they are easy and people cannot resist them – especially when made with eggs from pastured hens allowed to forage en plein air, eating grass and bugs: those yolks are bright, nutritious and taste like eggs should. Those shells are firm, making boiling a cinch.

Deviled eggs certainly leave room for plenty of variations:  you can make them as homey or as trendy as you care. In fact, I just heard of some made with curry powder and crushed pineapple. Are you still allowed to call them deviled if they aren’t spicy? I was told recently by a gentleman from Alabama that they simply call “dressed” where he comes from.

A few tricks that I use when making deviled eggs: Read more

Fig Jam with Lemon & Sweet Wine

I have not made as much jam this year as last year – mostly because I still have lots of jam left from last year.

But when an offer to come over and pick ripe Brown Turkey figs came recently, I had no choice but make fig jam. The figs were really ripe and soft and were not going to keep.

Cut up and sugared figs, resting for the night

Figs are naturally very sweet, so I don’t use quite as much sugar as other jams. They are, however, one of the few fruits not acid enough to can using a boiling water-bath method without acidifying first (elderberries are another such). So I always use lots of lemon – and wine also adds some acidity.

So yes, it is sweet, but it still works quite nicely with cheese or cold meat.

But I am going to have to be careful: last year,  I made a lot  of fig jam. Or so I thought … so was handing jars left and right for the holidays… until I realized – way too late in January – that I had given them ALL away! I maybe fig-jam selfish this year!


Fig Jam With Lemon & Sweet Wine Read more

The Eighth & Ninth Days of Christmas (Meyer Lemon Marmalade)

Still working through my citrus boxes.

On the Eight Day, the Meyer lemons poached the previous night got squeezed, sliced, briefly simmered with sugar, and rested overnight again. It’s important that the rind softens as much as possible or the marmalade will have an unpleasant texture..

Marmalade before its rest

On the Ninth Day, it get boiled, jarred and processed in a water bath for long-term shelf life. Voila, beautiful marmalade fit to rival traditional Seville orange marmalade (which I could not find.) Particularly good with Butter Cookies from Brittany. You know, if we are going to go sweet, we are going to go sweet! (but a little bit goes a long way – this is a potent marmalade)

Meyer Lemons, Meyer Lemon Marmalade & Brittany Butter Cookies

This recipe illustrates that you may can all year long, and in small quantities too!

Meyer Lemon Marmalade Read more

The Fourth and Fifth Days of Christmas (of Breads and Limes)

The Fourth Day of Christmas was mostly spent cooking dinner for a group of hungry hunters, out for a pheasant shoot. It is the second time I have cooked for that group. It’s always a good thing when a client wants you back!

On the menu:

Alsatian Tarte Flambée and hot gulf shrimps with a spicy sun-dry tomato sauce. I love making that Alsatian Tarte Flambée – it’s easy and it’s always a winner! How can it not be? Slow cooked onions; bacon; crème fraiche. For informal groups like this one, I make a big rectangular tart on a large rimmed cookie sheet or a large free-form pizza. For smaller plated dinner, I make small individual perfectly round tartelettes served with a mache or frisée salad.

Free-Form Alsatian Tarte Flambee

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The Third Day of Christmas

We make Meyer Lemon curd. Lots of it.

It takes less than 30 minutes to make a quart of it, and since it freezes beautifully, you may as well make a few quarts… provided you have eggs and lemons. And we do.

meyer lemon curd

Jars of Meyer lemon curd for the fridge and the freezer


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