Author: sylvie

The Economics of Canning Peaches

I have been offering small hands-on classes on canning starting about one month ago: we’ve had 3 on peaches, 2 on pickles, and the first class on canning tomatoes is in 10 days, on August 17. There will be more workshops throughout August & September, 

The Soups Of Summer

Hot. Muggy. Summer in Virginia. Finally. Sigh… I can’t really complain, July having been relatively cool, but now it’s hot. It’s time for cold lemonade, lots of ice teas, dishes that do not heat up the kitchen (it’s being heated enough with canning)… like cold 

The Breads of Summer

I do love crusty toothsome baguettes, perfect for a spot of rillettes, mopping the dressing after a steak salad, or in the morning with a slather of good butter and fruity jam – or a good country loaf for sandwiches. But baking those breads heat up the kitchen – desirable in winter but not in summer.

But when there is will, there is a mean.

We don’t have a bread oven, but we do have a pizza stone and a gas grill. So my husband the baker developed a recipe – based on his no-knead winter bread recipe – that takes 10 to 15 minutes to bake outside on the grill depending what on the bread (flat or buns). Make 2 batches, and total is 20 to 25 minutes of baking – outdoors, not in the kitchen! Add to that 10 minutes of active time to prepare the dough, 10 minutes to shape it, and so about 30 minutes of active time produce a dozen flat breads or 8 to 10 buns which are prefect for sandwiches, burgers, the aforementioned rillettes and of course jam & butter.

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Before you say anything: yes, he prefers to weight his ingredients when baking, but for this bread, weighing is not really necessary because there is plenty room for a little more or less of this or that. And frankly, sometime we are not cooking in our kitchen and we have no scale. So a recipe based on volume can be eminently practical. For those of you not familiar with the US cup system, 1 cup = 240 ml, or roughly 2.5 dl

Buy flour by the 50 lb sack and store the bag in a large metal can (a new trash can for example), therefore making this homemade bread really economical. And enssuring that you almost always have flour on hand. Because beware… it is really good.

and – yoohoo! – he is still tinkering with the dough to see how versatile it is. He has made wonderful flat breads and tonight he is going to make hot-dog rolls. We, after all, need bread worthy of Harmany’s hot dogs. Yoohoo!!!

Keith’s Summer Sandwich Buns Continue reading The Breads of Summer

On Beeing A Cicada (or: Food Preservation)

La Cigale, ayant chanté Tout l’été, Se trouva fort dépourvue Quand la bise fut venue. * Jean de LA FONTAINE (La Cigale et La Fourmi) While I don’t think you have to toil the entire summer to put some food by, this is certainly the 

Summer Lunch

Summer has been cooler here than in prior years. So while tomatoes are really just starting to ripen and yield – finally!!!! – for real (a good 2 weeks past my usual tomato target date though), cabbage, kale (kale!!! in July! edible!) and lettuce greens 

it’s summer, you eat … WHAT???!!!

Purslane: I call it a nutritious easy to grow crunchy little green (now officially renamed par moi a “super gourmet green” !). Add it to green salads, or – my favorite – to potato salad. Other people like it too: El – of course! (go to this post for a picture … if you need one) – and Chelsea whose post of Warm Potato & Purslane Salad inspired me to try purslane with potato salad. Nonetheless, he calls it a weed. He eats it, though – gingerly. Me? I am going to pickle it, having found a recipe in one of my French cookbooks.

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Radish seed pods: I call them tasty little bits, great for salads and stir-fries. He just shrug them off and eats around them. But then he has no particular fondness for radishes, any of it (except the quick pickled ones). Make sure to pick only young and immature pods: they toughen as the seeds mature. There is actually a radish bred for its pods, with the evocative name of Rat’s Tail Radish or sometimes – less poetically – podding radish. I use my standard French breakfast style radish and let them go to seeds. Flowers are pretty, attract pollinators and beneficial insects … and are edible too.

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We both agree though that green coriander seed is a short live treasure. Short lived in the garden, as you need to pick the young green immature seeds before they start to mature, and once picked must eat them within a few hours, before they start to dry. The taste is something between cilantro and coriander – which is no surprise since it is both – but without the toughness of the mature coriander shell. The younger the seed (smaller and more vibrant green, with no tinge of yellow), the brighter the taste. I use them in rillettes (just cooked for a few minutes), add to sautéed pork chops or chicken, salsa etc – again adding them just for the last couple of minutes of cooking. I like them so much that I am collecting some and freezing them for future use. The ones I don’t harvest green will become coriander: some will end up in the pantry, others will reseed themselves for a fall crop.

Allons Enfants de la Patrie…

Amuse-Bouche: Pissaladière Rillettes D’Oie Sauvage au Coriandre Vert Salade de Melon à la Menthe et au Combava Paté Créole Reunionnais Petite Salade Verte Vichyssoise à l’Oseille Poulet Fermier au Vrai Barbeque (Chêne Rouge & Bois de Pomme) Haricots Verts Brochettes de Boeuf aux Herbes de 

Peppers Before Tomatoes

That’s really not the way it’s supposed to work, but that’s how it’s working this year. Despite having started my tomato plants early in February, I did not plant most of them them until fairly late, and since they don’t hold as well in pots 

Elder Blossom Lemonade

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A plant of our hedgerows and abandoned fields that are being reconquered by the forest, the elder favors the sides of ditches and embankments – especially those with a bit of shade. Oh, it grows well enough in full sun, but it seems to appreciate the extra moisture that accumulates in ditches.

Elder is a plant of the edge – maybe a plant ON the edge – making do with full sun or part shade – unable to decide whether it wants to really be in the meadow. Because of its widespread natural habitat, Sambucus (the botanical name for the genus) plays a role in many folklores: Scandinavians, Mediterraneans, North American Indians all had legends of the Elder … giving rises to conflicting stories of goodness and evil, stories that bellies its sun/shade qualities. At the edge, neither sun nor shade, neither evil nor saintly.

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Even its name – both the common and the botanical name in fact – harks back to old times. Continue reading Elder Blossom Lemonade

Summer Solstice on Turkey Mountain – The Pictures.

I am zonked. Elated, but zonked. The Summer Solstice Farm Dinner worked beyond our expectations. There is absolutely something magical that happen when you gather people around a long table (or in this case 3 long tables of 50 people each), in the fieldd, in